Here's
all of what Dick Metcalf had to say about CorrosionX in his "Worth
A Look" column in Shooting Times:
I
sometimes think there are more different kinds of firearms lubes
and rust-prevention compounds on the market these days than there
are guns. However, I have recently become a believer in one particular
item and have begun using it exclusively. The product is CorrosionX.
As a corrosion inhibitor, CorrosionX polar bonds to metal (water
beads on it like car wax), prevents rust from starting even with
extended exposure to rain, and withstands extreme handling abuse.
It repels moisture with the thinnest of coats. I've rubbed hard
with a salt-sweaty thumb on a barrel wiped down with CorrosionX
and moisture still beads. And its polar-bonding effect works to
prevent existing rust from progressing - spray it on a gun where
rust specks have already begun, and it'll stop it cold.
As a lubricant, CorrosionX offers a lower coefficient of friction
than even PTFE-fortified products ( the Teflon, semiteflon, and
other polymer-bead compounds). Plus, since it's specifically designed
for high-temperature(s), it doesn't burn off or sublimate away
during hot-action use. I recently used it to lube the yoke/crane
cylinder-rotation shafts of two .357 Magnum revolvers during a
10,000-round endurance review, where 500-round strings were standard.
CorrosionX worked longer and better than anything I've used before.
The cylinder/yoke areas would get too hot to touch, but the lube
did not dry up and was visibly still "moist" when I pulled off
the cylinder.
As a penetrating agent, CorrosionX is remarkable. The manufacturer
reports incidents where its application has freed the frozen actions
of guns that have laid for weeks in the soaking ruins of building
fires. That's pretty extreme.
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Here's more from Chris Christian's GUN WORLD article on CorrosionX:
Unfortunately, .22 rimfire semi-auto pistols happen to be one
of the more difficult firearm designs to keep functioning in a
reliable manner. And the same also applies to semi-auto rimfire
rifles. There are two major reasons for this, and they really
aren't the fault of the gun.
The first is that the .22 Long Rifle cartridge (regardless of
who makes it, or how much it costs) is an inherently dirty little
rascal. It tends to spew a significant amount of lead and powder
residue every time the trigger is pulled.
The second is that the rimfire semi-auto action is rather small
and confined. It doesn't leave a lot of room for this debris to
settle in, nor can it be blown out of the action as is the case
with centerfire semi-autos Crud tends to accumulate in a .22 rimfire,
and when enough of this crud accumulates, the gun tends to stop
shooting. That's not a good thing to happen, especially in the
middle of a match, or if you have just figured out the lead and
sight picture on a rapidly-vanishing varmint.
You can compound that problem quickly if you use the wrong lubricant
for the gun. Some otherwise outstanding oils and lubes tend to
hold powder and lead residue, which builds up quickly and leads
to failure in as few as 50 to 100 rounds. Other lubes, like Rem
Oil or Tetra Gun, do not allow firing residue to cling as tightly;
if my Ruger was properly cleaned and then lubed with these, I
could expect as many as 300 rounds ,give or take, before the gun
decided to take an extended break in the middle of the action.
I believe I have found a better lube than that. CorrosionX is
a relatively new product using some very high-tech ingredients.
Those components surface bond with metal, form a self-healing
shield and resist wearing extremely well.
To find out how CorrosionX might work with rimfires, I took my
Ruger Mark II target handgun, stripped it, hosed it with carb
cleaner and thoroughly spray-lubed it with CorrosionX. I then
took a fresh 500-round brick of CCI Green Tag (an excellent performing
match load, but an outside lead-lubricated round of the type that
causes the most sludge build up in many .22 rimfires) and began
firing them. This was not a torture test ... I engaged in normal
precision practice (30 to 50 rounds per session, twice a week)
for the next six weeks.
The only maintenance on the gun during the six-week period was
to: (1) wipe the breech face with a clean patch after each shooting
session, and (2) run one dry patch through the bore every 100
rounds. No additional lubrication, internally or externally, was
provided during the six-week period.
After 10 years of shooting this gun in competition, I have found
that the very best lubricants would allow 300 to 400 rounds of
reliable functioning before lubrication-related malfunctions began
to occur.
I finished the 500-round brick of Green Tag without a single lubrication-related
malfunction. At the end of that brick, the gun was still purring
right along; I had a match the following weekend, however, so
I terminated the test and cleaned and lubed the gun. I do not
know how far I would have been able to push that gun, but after
500 rounds of lead match ammo, the action was quite clean and
the gun was still running smoothly.
CorrosionX, obviously, does not trap firing residue within the
gun. It is superior to any other lubricant I have ever used for
.22-rimfire actions. In fact, I was pretty much astonished at
its performance!
As a plus, CorrosionX does marvelous things to the rust that seems
to grow on my guns. My hands will rust just about any metal they
come in contact with, and every handgun I own wears a slight patina
of rust on the front and back of the grips. During the initial
cleaning of the Ruger Mark II, (blue steel) pistol, the CorrosionX
removed the patina from the grip area. And, despite the fact that
I applied no more lubricant during the entire six-week test even
in the humid Florida climate I live in the patina never returned.
CorrosionX stopped that. And, it stopped it on my other blue steel
guns, as well. This is, without a doubt, the best surface metal
protectant I have ever used!
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